Use the Get a Fast Estimate page to tell us about the job, share your property and contact details, and upload photos. We'll review it and get back to you, usually within one business day.

For most jobs, yes. Send a few photos and some rough measurements, and we can usually give you an estimate without a site visit. Jobs that can be measured, like turf and retaining walls, can often be quoted over the phone. Excavation, steel edging and rock walls usually need a quick site visit to confirm the quote.

Not usually. Most jobs can be estimated from photos, and measurable jobs like turf and retaining walls can often be quoted over the phone. Excavation, steel edging and rock walls usually need a quick site visit to confirm the quote.

It helps to include a description of the work you need done, your property address, and photos of the area or job. If access is limited — for example a narrow side gate or driveway — let us know that too.

We aim to get back to every enquiry within one business day.

We'll review the details and photos you provide and get back to you, usually within one business day, with an initial estimate where possible. From there we can arrange a time to look at the job if needed before confirming final pricing.

We're based in Wandin North and work across twenty-one suburbs in Melbourne's outer east and the Yarra Valley. See our Service Areas page for the full list.

Yes. We work with both residential and commercial customers, including one-off business projects and selective ongoing maintenance where it's the right fit following a completed project.

Turf and artificial turf, planting, garden beds, steel edging, paving, excavation and ground preparation, and retaining walls where they're part of the project. We combine these into one landscaping project rather than treating each as a separate job.

Yes. Most landscaping projects start with an existing backyard rather than a bare site — we assess what's there now and work out what stays, what's removed, and what the new layout needs.

Yes. Landscaping that involves new levels, retaining walls, drainage or a significant layout change needs excavation and ground preparation first, which we carry out as part of the same project.

Yes. A retaining wall is often what makes a level lawn or turf area possible on a sloping block — we plan the wall, excavation and turf together as a single landscaping project.

The area to be landscaped, what's currently there, approximate size, site access, and any elements you already know you want — turf or artificial turf, paving, a retaining wall, or garden beds.

Excavation work carried out on sites with restricted space — for example a narrow side gate or limited driveway clearance — using compact machinery such as a Toro TX1000 narrow-track machine or a Dingo instead of standard-sized equipment.

A Toro TX1000 narrow-track machine, a Dingo, and a 1.7-tonne excavator, chosen depending on the site and access available.

Some jobs can be completed through an opening of around 900mm, depending on the machine, the complete access path, ground conditions and job scope. This isn't a guarantee every machine or job will fit — access needs assessing for the specific site.

Yes. Excavation and ground preparation are a core part of most driveway and retaining wall projects, and we carry this out as part of the same job rather than as a separate contractor.

A structure that holds back a slope or change in ground level, turning a sloped block into usable, level space for a lawn, garden bed, patio or easier access.

Concrete sleepers generally last longer and handle moisture better, suiting walls holding back soil on a slope. Timber — treated pine or hardwood — costs less and gives a more natural look, suiting smaller or garden-style walls. Neither is universally better; it depends on height, location, drainage and appearance.

Drainage behind a retaining wall stops water pressure building up and pushing the wall out over time — it's one of the most common reasons an older wall fails, which is why we install it as standard on new builds and replacements.

The wall's length and height, the material used, site access, how much excavation is needed, and whether drainage needs to be newly installed. Because walls can be measured, many can be quoted over the phone. We build walls under 1 metre high. Rock walls, and walls on a slope, near a boundary or supporting a structure, usually need a quick site visit to confirm the quote. We don't take on walls that need a building permit.

Concrete gives the most solid, lowest-maintenance, longest-lasting finish at a higher upfront cost. Crushed rock is the lowest-cost option, suited to longer driveways, but needs periodic top-ups. Recycled asphalt sits between the two. There's no single best option — it depends on budget, driveway length and the finish you want.

Removing any existing material, excavating and preparing the ground to the correct level, forming the driveway's footprint, and preparing a stable base before the surface itself is laid.

Yes. We widen or extend existing driveways, matching the existing surface where practical, or resurfacing the whole driveway where a clean match isn't possible.

The length and width of the driveway, the surface chosen, how much excavation and base preparation is needed, existing ground conditions, and site access.

Pruning retains the tree and works on selected branches — the better option where the tree is basically healthy. Removal takes the whole tree out, which is right where it's dead, dying, structurally unsound, or can't reasonably stay given its size or position.

We offer both stump grinding and complete stump removal once a tree is removed — let us know which you'd prefer, or ask us to advise, when requesting your estimate.

Tree removal generates a significant amount of branches, foliage and timber. We clear this from site using a truck and chipper — larger removals in particular need this equipment to access the property.

Grass clippings, branches, foliage, weeds and general garden off-cuts — from mowing, pruning, hedging and clean-up work. This isn't a general household junk removal service; we don't remove household rubbish or furniture.

Yes. Larger volumes of green waste, including branches and small tree material, are cleared using a truck and chipper, which reduces bulky material on-site before it's removed.

Yes. Where a job needs mowing, pruning, hedging or garden-bed clean-up as well as waste removal, we can carry out that work and remove the resulting green waste as one job.

Yes. A significant share of our mowing work is one-off — a single visit to bring an overgrown or neglected lawn back under control. You don't need to sign up to an ongoing round to get a mow done.

Yes, using equipment suited to bigger areas and longer grass. Property size and access affect how a larger mowing job is quoted and scheduled.

The size of the area, how overgrown the grass is, access for mowing equipment, and whether you want the clippings taken away. Edging and whipper-snipping are included as part of the mow.

They either go into your green bin or are left on the lawn — our ride-on mower has no catcher, so on the areas it mows the clippings stay on the grass. If you would rather we took them away, we can, for an additional fee — mention it when you request an estimate.

Garden maintenance is caring for and tidying an existing garden — weeding, pruning, mulching and general upkeep. Landscaping is creating or transforming a garden — new turf, garden beds, paving or retaining walls.

Yes, much of this work is one-off — bringing a garden back under control, or tidying it up ahead of an event, sale or season change, rather than a fixed recurring arrangement.

Weeding, pruning and hedging, mulching and planting, leaf and debris clean-up, and seasonal tidy-ups, for residential and commercial properties.

Yes. Pruning taller trees or higher branches often needs elevated access, which our team carries out as part of the pruning job.

Pruning generates branches and green waste, which we clear from site using a truck and chipper.

Stump grinding mechanically grinds the visible stump down below ground level so it's no longer a trip hazard or surface obstacle. It reduces the stump but doesn't necessarily excavate the full root system.

Grinding removes the visible stump and leaves the roots in the ground — faster and less disruptive, and usually fine under turf or a garden bed. Complete removal excavates the whole root system — better where you need the ground fully clear, for example to build over the area or plant a new tree in the same spot.

The main root system generally stays in the ground and breaks down naturally over time. That's usually fine for turf or garden beds, but if you're building, paving or replanting in exactly the same spot, complete removal is the better option.